The Pasiegos Villages. Tradition and Modernity

Pas, Pisueña and Miera Valleys | Approximate distance: 70 km

Setting off from La Casona de los Güelitos towards Puente San Miguel, take the A-8 towards Torrelavega, then continue along the N-634 to Castañeda, where this route begins. From here, the journey will take you through Castañeda, San Vicente de Toranzo, Ontaneda, Alceda, Entrambasmestas, Vega de Pas, Puerto de la Braguía, Selaya, Villacarriedo, San Pedro del Romeral, and San Roque de Riomiera.

Green meadows, high mountains, and a deeply rural atmosphere define the Pasiegos Valleys, traditionally devoted to livestock farming. Crossed by the Pas, Pisueña, and Miera Rivers, the landscape is dotted with scattered cabins that reflect the unique way of life of the Pasiego people.

Their customs and traditions, linked to transhumant grazing, form the essence of Pasiego culture, still alive in many areas today. The peace and quiet of the surroundings contrast with the historically demanding rural life.

Along the way, in the Pisueña Valley, you’ll find Castañeda, home to the Collegiate Church of Santa Cruz, one of the most important Romanesque monuments in Cantabria. Nearby, by the river, stands the Castañeda Cross, a rustic 17th-century stone cross. On the banks of the Pas River, you’ll reach Puente Viesgo, where you can visit the prehistoric Monte Castillo Caves, famous for their remarkable cave paintings.

Further south, San Vicente de Toranzo, gateway to the beautiful Anievas Valley, leads to Ontaneda and Alceda, a charming historic ensemble of manor houses. From Entrambasmestas, head towards Vega de Pas, the capital of the Pasiego villages, where you can enjoy its picturesque square, cobbled streets, and traditional architecture.

Cross the Puerto de la Braguía mountain pass and, upon reaching Selaya and Villacarriedo, admire the elegant Doñadío Palace and Soñanes Palace, representing mountain and baroque styles. Be sure to taste local specialties such as sobaos and quesadas.

Visit the Museum of the Three Pasiego Villages and discover the culture of San Pedro del Romeral, San Roque de Riomiera, and Vega de Pas. The museum recreates traditional Pasiego life, housed in a building inspired by their characteristic winter cabins.

On your return, as you drive along the winding slopes of the Lunada Pass, enjoy the breathtaking scenery of green meadows and scattered Pasiego cabins. Finally, in Liérganes, stroll through the El Mercadillo District, known for its stately houses with long balconies adorned with flowers and family crests, and treat yourself to a comforting hot chocolate with churros.

A route full of tradition, culture, and unforgettable landscapes.